About 2 1/2 oz of baby sport yarn
Size G hook
For shell: Work (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in stitch indicated.
Note: In this pattern the ch 2 at the beginning of the row DOES NOT count as the first hdc. You would work your first hdc in the same stitch and when coming to the end of the row you will work into that hdc, not in the ch 2 space. This gives a straighter edge and a no gaps from the turning chain.
Starting at neck edge, ch 38
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (36 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 2 (see note above), hdc in first 4 hdc, work shell in next hdc, (8 hdc, shell, 8 hdc, shell, 8 hdc, shell, 4 hdc) across; turn. (32 hdc, 4 shells)
Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in next 5 hdc, shell in next ch 2 space, (10 hdc, shell in next ch 2 space, 10 hdc, shell, 10 hdc, shell, 5 hdc) across; turn. (40 hdc, 4 shells)
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in next 6 hdc, shell in next ch 2 space, (12 hdc, shell, 12 hdc, shell, 12 hdc, shell, 6 hdc) across; turn. (48 hdc, 4 shells)
Rows 5-10: Ch 2, working in established pattern, (hdc in each hdc, shell in each ch 2 space) across.
Row 11: This row will form the armholes. Ch 2, hdc to 1st shell, work 1 hdc into that ch 2 space. Folding your work so that the 1st and 2nd shells line up work 1 DC into both ch 2 spaces, connecting them, then work 1 hdc in the 2nd ch 2 space. Hdc across to the 3rd shell and repeat this forming the 2nd armhole, hdc to end of row.
For the remainder of the sweater you could hdc across each row or switch to any stitch you prefer and work that until the sweater is the length you want it to be. I’ve found that another 11 rows of hdc gives a good length.
Rnd 1: Join to underarm, ch 2 and work 28 hdc around, join to 1st hdc.
Rnds 2-5: Ch 2, hdc around, join.
Rnd 6: Ch 2, (hdc in next 2, hdc next 2 tog) around. (21 hdc)
Rnds 7-12: Ch 2, hdc around.
Rnd 13: Ch 1, (sc in next 2, sc next 2 tog) join to 1st sc.
Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc around. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for other arm.